“Every sunset brings the promise of a new dawn.”
A sunset is not just the end of the day; it’s a transition, a gateway to something new. “A new dawn”. As a photographer, capturing a sunset isn’t about documenting an ending—it’s about preserving a moment that signifies renewal, change, and the infinite cycle of time. Just as no two sunsets are the same, every dusk brings a new and unique opportunity for creativity. In today’s post, I’ll switch gears a bit, and spend a bit of time sharing what I’ve learned photographing the interplay of light and dynamic range of colors and contrasts in sunrises and sunsets. I’ll share selected photographs from my collection and provide insights into the techniques used to obtain these images.
Why photograph sunrises and sunsets?
There’s something endlessly captivating about the way the sun transforms the sky, creating a fleeting masterpiece twice a day. Unlike other photography subjects that require a specific setting, moment, or model, the sun is always there—offering an open invitation to experiment, practice, and refine my craft. When creative blocks arise, I turn to the sky. It becomes my blank canvas, where light and color take on a life of their own, resembling the abstract paintings I’ve always been drawn to. No two sunrises or sunsets are ever the same, making each opportunity a fresh challenge and an exercise in creativity.
Beyond the visual appeal, there’s also a thrill in the pursuit. Capturing a truly breathtaking sunset isn’t just about being in the right place at the right time—it’s about planning, anticipating the light, and composing a shot that conveys the emotion of the moment. It’s an interplay between patience and spontaneity, structure and instinct. And when everything aligns—the colors, the clouds, the landscape—the result is more than just a photograph; it’s a moment frozen in time, a reminder of nature’s artistry and the joy of the chase.
Getting the Shot
Planning / Timing
The key to capturing a great sunrise or sunset is anticipating them. One way to do this is to use websites which provide sunrise and susnet intensity maps. Sites such as sunsetwx are great for providing an indication of the potential for dramatic sunrises and sunsets. Sunsetwx displays a map of the United States for the next sunrise and sunset. The hotter the color (reds and oranges), the higher chance of a dramatic sunset. In the example below, southern California would have the best chance for a higher quality sunset.
While this is an input and is based on math and science, it isn’t perfect and you don’t always have easy access to these type of maps. As a result, most of the time I go off of gut feel based on experience. This is easier to do for sunsets because you get hints in the afternoon. Sunrises are more challenging because most people aren’t awake before the sunrise so you just have to wake up early and take your chances. For me, this isn’t a bad approach since I’m an early riser and usually awake before the sun and if it’s a weekend, I’ll be making a coffee run and I always have my camera with me.
So, other than it already being visible, what are some of the “tells” or hints that I use to predict a great sunset? I’ve found that the following 3 leading indicators are the best predictors and will cause me to get in my car with camera ready.
- Hazy skies
- Cloudy skies
- Last remnants of a stor
1. Hazy skies
Haze consists of tiny particles—such as dust, smoke, or pollution—that scatter sunlight. This scattering effect softens the sky and can create deep, warm tones like intense oranges and reds (see the image below). Because haze diffuses light more evenly, it often results in a more muted, glowing sunset rather than one with dramatic contrasts. In extreme cases, such as during wildfire smoke events, the sun can appear deep red or even pink due to heavy filtering of shorter wavelengths. However, too much haze can dull the colors, making the sunset look washed out instead of vibrant.
2. Cloudy skies
Cloudy skies enhance sunsets by scattering light, reflecting vibrant colors, and adding depth and texture. As the sun sets, its light travels through more of the atmosphere, filtering out shorter wavelengths and allowing reds, oranges, and pinks to dominate. Clouds catch and reflect this light, creating a more dramatic and colorful display. High-altitude clouds, in particular, amplify the effect, while lower clouds add contrast and depth. Moisture and particles in the clouds further diffuse the warm hues, turning an ordinary sunset into a stunning, multi-layered spectacle.
3. The calm after the storm
Sunsets after a storm are especially dramatic because the rain clears the air of dust and pollution, allowing for more vivid colors. Lingering storm clouds at different altitudes catch the setting sun’s light, creating a striking mix of deep reds, oranges, and purples. Moisture in the air enhances light scattering, while breaks in the clouds create high-contrast scenes where dark, moody formations glow along their edges. The wet ground also adds reflections and added pops of light. Additionally, the turbulence of the storm can lead to unique cloud shapes, adding movement and intensity to the sky. This combination of clean air, rich colors, and dynamic cloudscapes makes post-storm sunsets truly breathtaking.
Obviously don’t run out to capture a sunset in the middle of a storm, but if you’re lucky enough to have a storm late in the afcternoon, be ready to get out there and capture the most dramatic of sunsets.
Now that you now what to look for and how to predict a great sunset, you’ll need to make sure you are in position and ready at the right time. I’d suggest being ready 30 minutes prior to sunset and staying until 30 minutes after. This will maximize your chances and give you variety on the front and back end of the sun disappearing into the horizon. You’ll see reds, oranges and yellows before and will tend to see purples, pinks and blues after.
All of the weather apps on your phone will have a sunrise/sunset time so use that to define your 1 hour window.
Equipment and Settings
I won’t go into a deep dive on cameras because, honestly, you can take amazing photos with just about any camera—including the one in your pocket. Smartphone cameras are improving every day, and since they’re always with you, they’re a great tool for capturing spontaneous moments. But if you’re looking to elevate your shots, create larger prints, or experiment with more advanced techniques, a DSLR or mirrorless camera is the way to go. I typically use my 24-70mm 2.8 lens as it give me the most flexibility.
A tripod is another game-changer. It helps stabilize your camera for sharper shots and allows you to experiment with longer exposures—perfect for capturing dreamy, motion-blurred clouds or smooth, glassy water.
If you really want full creative control, shooting in manual mode is the best way to go. Adjusting your ISO, aperture, and shutter speed gives you the flexibility to adapt as the light changes—especially at sunrise or sunset, when the lighting shifts dramatically in just minutes.
As the sun dips below the horizon, you’ll need to compensate for the fading light. Lowering your ISO reduces noise, adjusting your aperture controls depth of field, and a longer shutter speed allows more light in. Finding the right balance between these settings is what turns a good shot into a breathtaking one.
Want to add an artistic touch to your sunset shots? Try using a longer shutter speed—1/20th of a second or slower—to blur the movement of clouds, giving them a soft, painterly effect. Keep in mind, though, that the longer your shutter stays open, the more light floods in. To compensate, you’ll want to lower your ISO and/or narrow your aperture (increase your f-stop) to keep the exposure balanced.
Under each image in this post, I’ve included the exact settings I used so you can use them as a reference. But here’s the thing—there’s no magic formula. The best way to master sunset photography is through trial and error. The good news? You get two chances every single day to practice—sunrise and sunset. So grab your camera, find a beautiful spot, and start experimenting!
Composition
When it comes to composing your sunset shots, two classic approaches work exceptionally well: the rule of thirds and the centered sun technique.
The rule of thirds is a go-to method that divides your frame into three equal sections, both horizontally and vertically. For sunset photography, this usually means placing the horizon along the lower third to emphasize a dramatic sky, or along the upper third if you want to highlight reflections in water or details on the ground. This simple trick creates a more dynamic and visually pleasing shot. Notice in the image below I used the rule of thirds to emphasize the clouds in the upper two thirds while also placing the tripod in the rightmost third of the horizon. This creates a nice balance and tension with the sun itself.
On the other hand, sometimes breaking the rule works just as well—especially when you place the sun dead center in the frame. This approach creates a strong sense of symmetry and balance, drawing the viewer’s eye straight to the focal point of the image.
You’ll see both of these techniques in the photos throughout this post. Try experimenting with each to see which style best captures the mood of your scene!
Making it Pop
While it’s super important to get the shot as close to final in-camera, a bit of post-processing is required to really bring the image to life. To maximize the potential of an image, I shoot in raw format which captures all possible information without any of the in camera image modifications. This means I always need to post process my images but gives me the greatest flexibility to bring my creative vision to life and get the image as close as possible to the way I saw it.
In the image below I liked the sharp contrast between the cattails in the foreground with the orange sky in the background and its reflection in the lake. Using Lightroom I was able to increase the darks while retaining the orange, purples and blues in the sky.
My tool of choice is Adobe Lightroom Classic. I have the Adobe Photographer’s subscription plan for $9.99 per month which includes the latest and greatest versions of Lightroom and Photoshop. I use Lightroom for all my images as it catalogs and curates while also providing every imaginable feature for adjusting light and color and further refinement of images. I use Photoshop when I want to be even more creative as it provides more artistic features and works great for digital drawing and painting. For sunrises and sunsets, I use Lightroom 90% of the time and Photoshop when I want to stitch a series of images together for a very large or panoramic print.
Typical Adjustments
If not obvious by now, I gravitate towards more colorful, dramatic images and will use post processing to bring the scene to life and make everything pop off the page. To do this I tend to lower the highlights, increase the darks, bump up the shadows and add a bit of dehaze, clarity and vibrance or saturation.
Scale it Up!
Some of my favorite and most dramatic images tend to those created from more than one image. I’ll turn my camera vertical and take anywhere from 3-8 shots. You can also keep the camera horizontal but by going vertical you can create an even larger image which is great for large size prints. Tools like Photoshop or Lightroom will allow you to stitch multiple photos together.
The key to making this work is that you need to keep your camera steady and you need to ensure the photos overlap from left to right. The software needs something in the previous image that also exists in the current image (tree, telephone pole) to link them properly.
Whether using your phone camera or a professional DSLR, photographing sunrises and sunsets involves a combination of planning, technical knowledge, and an understanding of natural light. I hope that you can take advantage of some of these techniques to take capture even better images!
If you have other tips and tricks, or any other thoughts, feel free to share them in the comments.
If you’d like to see more of my sunset and sunrise images, take a peek at my gallery.
